Before I started working on the cart, I decided it was time to address a problem I had been deferring. The racks pivot on 3/8” dowels, with a washer/spacer between the racks and base so the racks won’t drag. I bought the smallest 3/8“ washers I could find at Home Depot, but they were too big and were visible. That wouldn’t do.
I suspected I could buy 5/8“ outside diameter nylon washers somewhere, but I couldn’t find any locally. (I later found some at McMaster-Carr, but I think they came in 500 packs or something, so I wouldn’t have bought them anyway.)
I decided to make my own. I started by cutting some thin (0.100”) strips from one of my 3/4" thick scraps. I could sand the washers later if they were too thick.
At first, I wasn’t sure how to draw the 5/8“ outer circles for the washers. Then it dawned on me that I could use a 5/8” Forstner bit to score the circles.
The center dimples made it easy to align a 3/8” bit to drill the inner circles. I made a bunch of extras.
I tried using a coping saw in the normal way (blade perpendicular top stock) to cut out the rings, but I kept breaking the washers. I then used the saw parallel to the stock and cut straight lines around the circles. That worked better. Later, I switched to a fine-bladed model saw, and that worked even better.
Then I trimmed off more excess with a sharp utility knife.
Finally, I sanded the edges, holding the rings with pliers so I didn’t sand off my fingertips.
It didn’t take long, and soon I had a usable set of washers.
The washers don’t project past the edges of the rack sides.
Last night, as I was planning my writing for today, I realized that I could have just bought a 5/8” diameter wooden dowel, drilled a 3/8“ hole through the center of a short length of it, and then cut slices. That may have been slightly easier.
Ron, What attention to detail! The dowel idea probably wouldn't have worked because of the end grain; I think they may have fallen apart when cut that thin. You did the right thing! L/W
“Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
Great idea going with wood Ron 👍 When I'm looking for thin-rim nylon washers I'll look around the plumbing/kitchen parts area. . The boxes of hardware store steel washers always seem to be 1 size larger than advertised. I know that 3/8" has almost a 7/16 hole. Too sloppy for 3/8 and needs a slight ream to be perfect for 7/16. Similar effect on all common sizes.
If I was going to make a bunch of those, I'd have use a hole saw to cut the OD in a thick piece of stock, but not all the way through. Then the pilot hole gets drilled to the ID needed. Off to the bandsaw to resaw the stock and liberate the washers (just like cutting the tapered hole plugs).
L/W, I'm sure you're right about the end-grain weakness.
Splint, you offered up a lot of useful suggestions in a short comment. I'll file that away for future reference. I did look only in the hardware aisle. Maybe I would have found something in the plumbing aisle. I never considered a hole saw; I didn't even know you could buy them as small as 5/8" (or I guess 3/4" for a 5/8" OD hole). Your method would have been much faster.
It’ll be interesting to see how those hold up Ron. I’d be concerned with the weight of the racks pushing down, then the rotational movement of swinging them out may try to tear the grain apart.
I saw it was mentioned but, yeah, plumbing aisle all the way for nylon washers and the like 👍🏼
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
I’m curious about this too, Ryan. I did use pecan wood, which is the hardest species in my scrap rack. I did make sure the base is removable, so I can switch to different washers, or possibly to some sort of metal knife hinges, if necessary.
L/W, a 5/8” plug cutter would have been a perfect solution. I need to get a set. I could have used a 1/4” cutter. I accidentally drilled a hole in one of my rack sides. I patched it with a dowel cutoff, knowing full well that it was going to look darker than the surrounding wood when I applied finish (but hoping that it wouldn’t look too bad). A face grain plug would have been invisible.
Do you own the HF cutters you linked? Are they any good, or are they good for one or two uses before needing to be replaced? Five bucks for a set seems cheap even for HF.
Ron, Yes, I do own a set of those plug cutters. I've used them quite a bit and did have a small portion break off one (I think it was the 1/4" one), but I had made a lot of plugs without a break and it overheated. They have served my needs for a cheap price. I'm not certain about how precise their sizing is. I've had them for at least 10 years and probably bought them on a 50% off sale so I think I've gotten my money out of them! L/W
“Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
Ross, believe it or not, I was considering using a Maxwell Smart referecence in an upcoming post. I may still do it, the world needs more Get Smart references. :-)
L/W, that's a lot of use for a $5 tool. There's a Harbor Freight nearby. I'll have to pop in there the next time I drive by. Thanks!
Ron Stewart commented about 20 hours ago new Ross, believe it or not, I was considering using a Maxwell Smart referecence in an upcoming post. I may still do it, the world needs more Get Smart references. :-)
Yes! Now you have to make that reference. I used to love that show as a kid.
