Here's my workbench! It's for outdoor use and built with construction lumber(douglas fir)/recycled wood that used to be a part of my garage. The top board for the workbench is VG douglas fir.
I started with beating up one broken wall/cabinet in my garage to source some material. Whoever made the cabinet loved nails so it was hard to remove all the nails.
This guy especially loves long nails.
For the workbench build, I tried a Japanese style drawbore called Komisen(square one) and I now love this joint especially on big lumber.
Since the workbench is for outdoor use, I also tried Japanese treaditional dye called Kakishibu(fermented persimmon) which is rich in tannin. I found one on amazon USA(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55E68/) so I got it but it was actually for interior use but the ingredient was just pure persimmon tannin, I decided to use it. They usually put some natural pigments such as bengara(red) and shoen(black) but I just used it as is. I did total of 3 coats(1day between each coat).
The top board is connected to the base with sliding dovetails & keyhole style sliding dovetails. I put tail shape blocks on the base with dowels and hooked to the top board.
Looks just as good over here too! And I'm hoping you eventually come to like the tool well as a tool well, and not just something to finish spanning the width of the top. I love mine lol
MikeB_UK Thank you! I've been using a clamp thing like the picture below and with a moxon vise that I made last year, I just didn't need an integrated vise so far. When I need it, I'll add it for sure:)
Pottz Thank you! a little bench to you is a BIG BENCH too me, haha
RyanGi Thank you. I like the color, too! Though there are some glue spots:)
Mos, Thank you here, too. I think I already like it! but I like the gap between the toolwell and the benchtop more! I got Bessey EHKL clamp that I can easily take one jaw off. The clamp can go in the dog holes, too but it's convenient that the clamp can slide in the gap.
There always is a need for a bench with proper attachments, but many get intimidated thinking that they need to be full size. I think you have a winner for working on the style of projects you build.
987Ron, Thank you! I can only make a prototype level woodworking but surely I feel I'm getting better:)
Splinter, Thank you! The thing is, I don't have many things so whatever it is, it'll improve my current woodworking setup, haha. Of course, I want a full size thing, maybe one day.
That is a beautiful bench Yrti, well-crafted and the joints are spot on. It does look compact, but if that is all you need you nailed it. I need to read up on the pins for the drawbore.
Thank you Eric! I actually put a wrong number in the picture in my video by mistake....
What I did was, I used 1/2" square pin and for the tenon side, the distance between the tenon shoulder to the pin(the part closer to the shoulder) is 1-7/32"(in the video, I stated it as 1-1/32" by mistake). For the mortise side, the distance is 1-1/4" so the pin pulls the tenon by 1/32".
Basically, I looked for information of Japanese Joinery and found they use a 12mm- 15mm square pin for 90mm x 90mm lumber and I saw people use a 15mm pin for 105mm x 105mm lumber. I also found someone's article written in Japanese that they use 2mm offset to pull the tenon but I just thought 2mm is too risky for my cutting accuracy.
