Simple Jig for cutting 22.5° angles

Hmm....good....I wondered how to do it....thanks my friend!!

Nice and simple, Alex. That is how I do it also for slim angles!!!

I need to redo mine with a longer clamping fence like yours.

Took a minute to see the SCMS.

If I tried that I'd end up cutting my clamp in two.
Who says you can't cut <45 angles on a miter saw!

good idea duckie!!!

Making it like a sled makes sense. 👍🏼

That’s an accurate way to cut the 22* angles. 

What kind of miter saw is that and can a poor bloke like me on a budget get one on the cheep?

Can you get cuts on it without the jig like  45* angles for perfect miters for making boxes?
I have trouble cutting perfect 45’s on my Ryobi I have to make them on my table saw using an Incra miter sled. 

Maybe if I make a jig like yours but for 45’s I’ll get better results. Thanks for the tip. 

Good Work Alex..
Regards......Cliff.

That is interesting.  I use a tenon jib on the ts,but no good reference point for length. This fixes that.

Well done

Sorry for the lack of detail... I was just trying to prove a point that apparently has backfired and taken a big chunk out of my bum!

The saw is not an issue but a laser light can be a bonus... and for "on the cheap", laser attachments can be bought for most mitre saws... though dual kerfed is a tad more difficult (if they exist, or practical to after fit).

The secret to the jig is that the fence has to be 90° to the front of the base which should be butted up right against the mitre saws fence, still maintaining that 90°... which can easily be lost.  Also the jigs fence should be perpendicular to the base.
I just used a scrap piece of MDF for the base and some pine (glued and bradded) for the fence. 

Must have that 90° for the fence else the cut will be "offsided".

When making my flag box, cut the piece to exact length at 90°. Slap on the jig, set the mitre saw to the desired angle (22.5°), butt the end of a piece of scrap hard up against the mitre saw's fence, don't forget to clamp it, align the corner of the scrap using the laser (if available) moving the whole jig sideways as required, don't forget to clamp the jig,

and take test cut(s) moving the entire jig (micro tap is the go) until the edge is a crisp

bevel.

Then you cut your required timber and but each end hard up against the fence and cut.  Both ends should be crisp if you calibrated with the scrap correctly.

An alternative if you don't have a laser line is to cut in from the edge on a pre-measured piece of scrap,   

and measure your cut off waste (allow for the kerf of the saw)... alternatively measure the resultant piece and subtract from the original length to get the waste length including the kerf. Add double that length to your desired piece and cut without moving the jig... and don't forget clamping.

I knew I needed something like that every time I wanted to cut an acute angle on the MS, just never took the time to make something.

Key encouragement is the need for "calibrated scrap". I can deal with that! 🤠

Alex, that is a pretty cool jig for using a MS to cut a steep angle. I have always used my TS for these with a tall sliding fence on the saws rip fence (similar to a tenon jig). Get the blade right, then the only issue is fence positioning, and like you, a test or 3, and you can clamp them onto the jig, and slide the works through. Either can get messy if the pieces you are cutting become too long, but theoretically your way could be stretched a lot further than mine, Using proper supports.

Thanks for the feedback GW... Furtunately all my cuts were withing the capabilities of my mitre saw's "height"... I can see the benefit of the tenoning jig on the TS for say 290mm wide boards...

Hmm, that's got me thinking that my tracksaw on a piece of timber clamped flush against a "tabletop"/base  could also do the trick... length might be an issue though.... never tried but may be worth considering... if you have a tarcksaw.