Prior to this year’s Thanksgiving visit, my three-year old grandson expressed an interest in a tour of Grappy’s (that’s me) workshop. Instead of just showing him random tool usage, I wanted to come up with a simple and quick (with some prefabricated parts) Christmas-themed project we could work on together. Ideally, it would produce something he could touch and that would look interesting to him (and remain interesting as he ages). I also wanted to let him (help me) operate my drill press and do some hand sanding and assembly.
I’ve seen these Christmas tree projects on the web, and I thought a miniature one would be a good choice. This one is about 13” tall and 9” wide. It’s just a bunch of thin strips that rotate around a dowel plus a base and star. The branches are maple, and the base and star are walnut. I finished the walnut parts with Arm-R-Seal and left the maple parts unfinished. The base is removable so the tree can be stored flat.
The fun thing about these trees is that the branches can be arranged in a variety of ways. I’m partial to the spiral, but the criss-cross isn’t bad. A random arrangement is another option.
Young kids don’t always have the longest attention spans, so I wanted to build this project in an efficient way. To determine the approach, get an idea about the time required, and prefabricate the complicated parts (the star and base), I built a test version ahead of time. Below, I’ll describe the work I did. At the end, I’ll talk about how the joint work went.
I posted the SketchUp Model in 3D Warehouse, or you can view it directly below. As usual for my models, it's best to navigate the model via Scenes/My Scenes.
Design The tree’s rotating branches are thin strips (3/4” wide, 1/4” thick), each with a 3/8” hole in center. The branches taper from 9” wide at the bottom to 3/4" wide at the top. (The top surface of the topmost branch is a 3/4" square.)
The trunk is a 3/8” diameter dowel with a collar (a short dowel segment with a through hole) on each end to capture the strips. The base collar is 3/4” diameter, and the top collar is 1 /2” diameter. The top is smaller because it fits into a 3/4” thick star.
The base collar sits in a counterbore in the base, and the top collar fits into a counterbore in the star topper.
Branches (Thin Strips) I cut the 39 branches, each a 1/4” thick strip, from a 33” x 3” x 3/4" maple board. To minimize the amount of drilling required, I drilled the holes for the trunk (dowel) first. That way, we’d need to drill only five holes, not 39. Then I cut the board into sections so I wouldn’t have to cut 33” long strips.
For the strips, I thought about making a nice thin strip jig or using my MicroJig GRR-Ripper. In the end, I just made a temporary push block with a hook at the back. Both the block and the hook have a slot for the blade. The push block let me cut the strips on the right side of the blade without having to move the fence or adjust the GRR-Ripper, and it covered and applied downward pressure to the strip being cut.
As you can see, I cut the strips in four sections. (I combined the two shortest sections and cut them to length afterward.) It would have been easier to cut the strips in two sections. That would have reduced the number of rip cuts in half.
To cut the angled sides of the tree, I slipped the strips over a dowel to align them and used my taper sled to trim both sides.
With the sides cut, all I had to do was sand off the burn marks on the strips. I did that by hand because of how small most of the strips are.
Trunk (Dowels and Collars) The tree’s trunk is a 3/8” poplar dowel with a short collar on each end. To help center the holes in the collars, I made a simple drilling jig. It’s just a piece of scrap with 1/2" and 3/4" diameter counterbores centered across the width. To use it, I used a Forstner bit to position the jig, switched to a 3/8” bit, and placed the collar segment in the counterbore. The results weren’t perfect, but good enough for this project.
[02.01 Trunk - Finished collars.jpg]
Base I didn’t have a wide enough walnut board for the base, so I glued two pieces together.
After drilling the counterbores for the trunk’s base collar, I used a router and Jasper circle-cutting jig to cut out the base disks.
Then I chamfered the tops of the disks on the router table.
Star Topper The star topper was by far the most time-consuming part of the project. I considered building some sort of rotating jig for my crosscut sled to cut the star sides, but I decided to use hand tools instead.
I started by cutting blocks for the stars and drilling the counterbores for the trunk’s top collars. I knew I was going to mess up a few times, so I cut extra blocks.
I printed a full-sized template and taped it to the block so I wouldn’t have to draw cut lines.
I tried using a backsaw (one that came with a cheap plastic miter boxes 30 years ago), but I didn’t get good results. I switched to a coping saw. That didn’t work great either, but I kept at it and eventually managed to keep the blade outside the cut lines and perpendicular to the star’s face. (Flipping that clamp/vise on its side so it held the block vertically and let me saw straight down helped a lot.) Then I was able to use a flat file and sandpaper to finish one star. The second went quicker.
How would you cut this star, and what type of saw would you recommend for cutting small parts like this? I know a coping saw isn’t the answer, but it’s all I had.
With the stars cut, I did a dry fit to see how the tree looked. At first, my wife and I thought the star looked a bit off. Maybe it was too big.
I wasn’t looking forward to cutting smaller stars, so I thought about buying some from a craft store. Those tend to be thin, though, so I’d have to find a different way to attach them. I prototyped a triangular block at the top of the tree. I could cut a slot in it to hold a smaller, thinner star.
In the end, we decided that the problem was that the original top collar was too tall, so I shortened it, and that made the original star look a little better.
Final Assembly I finished the base and star with Arm-R-Seal to warm up the walnut. The strips looked fine, so I left them unfinished.
I knew I wanted the base to detach so the tree would store flat. I decided to use a threaded insert in the bottom of the trunk and a countersunk screw up through the bottom of the base.
I found #10-24 brass inserts and screws at Home Depot. I haven’t installed many of these, but I read that it’s easy to break them by using a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot at the top of the insert. I also read that using a nut and screw to install the insert helps reduce that risk, so that’s what I did. It worked fine.
With that done, all that remained was adding the strips and attaching the top collar and star. I considered using a small screw (something like a #2) to attach the top collar, but I didn’t have any on hand, so I just glued it on. There shouldn’t be any need to disassemble the tree anyway.
The last step (not shown here) was adding some thin cork pads to the bottom of the base.
The Main Event Anybody who has read this far is probably wondering how it went with my grandson over Thanksgiving.
It started out well. He liked the project, which we had not previously revealed to him, and he liked wearing the pint-sized PPE (safety glasses and ear projection) we bought for him. He got a kick out of pulling the drill press handles as we drilled the holes in the branch (strip) stock. We were working well as a team.
When we moved to the saw, though, the inevitable “creative differences” reared their head. Drunk with power after his first taste of using a real power tool, he started to challenge my status as lord and master of the shop. He decreed that the best vantage point for watching me cut the branch strips was bodied right up against the outfeed side of the saw. When the adults in the room explained that that was a no-go, he pivoted to Plan B: bodied up to the saw’s side. Marginally better, but still no dice. At that point, he still strongly argued his case, but everyone else decided it was time for him to go inside for a brief change of scenery.
I wound up cutting and tapering the strips myself, and he came back for the important dry fitting of the branches and trunk. Then I put a big smile back on his face when I let him vacuum all the loose sawdust on the saw. On that high note, we quit for the day.
The next day, sanding elves (i.e., me) surreptitiously sanded the branch strips and installed the threaded insert at the base of the trunk, and we were ready for the next work session. That went well. He did some light hand sanding of the branches and started sliding branch strips onto the trunk dowl. After a handful, he decided that he had learned all he needed and delegated the remaining branches to me. He had higher-priority work: stuffing scraps into the bag his safety glasses shipped in. (In all fairness, the bag was made of bubble wrap, so it was no ordinary bag.) I glued on the star topper. He helped screw the base to the trunk and added the cork pads to the base, and we were done.
All in all, I think he had fun working on the project. He and tree are back home now, and the tree has a home on his nightstand.
Pottz, I’ve started treating walnut cutoffs like precious metals. The couple who run my favorite lumberyard paint a grim picture of the future for walnut lumber. They say that it’s getting harder for them to find good logs because of some disease that’s killing many walnut trees. (They may be referencing thousand cankers disease.) Right now, they’re selling it for $21/board foot. You work at a lumberyard, right? Are you hearing/seeing that?
Great write up and a handy little inspiration to the tyke... and some decoration to boot.
Broke out in a sweat just thinking how long it took you to rotate those pieces in SketchUp.
How would you cut this star, and what type of saw would you recommend for cutting small parts like this?
My immediate though was a scroll saw (if you have one), but then I thought about my inverted jigsaw (everyone must have one of those) and not having enough opportunities, why not. Took you model and printed the two starts I found and using a Bostik Blu Stik glued the paper to a 19mm piece of pine. I probably should have given time for the glue to dry as it kept lifting which didn't help keeping to the line. NO science was followed like keeping to the outside, just cut... I hate sanding so I tried to kiss the line...
without practice and the pilot run, it wasn't too shabby.
Then I thought back to my first thought, Now let me fess up that I'm not a scroller and didn't take long to break a blade, Had more trouble keeping a straight line than with the jigsaw, but I finished it, I have been surprised at the finish off the jigsaw, not quite as smooth though I'm only looking at a few % out of 100.
I unintentionally probably took more care with the scroll saw as it was about 1/2 the speed of the jigsaw which gave me time to think. With a bit of practice, next time I would definitely try the jigsaw first.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
As a grandfather myself, I feel this was a great idea, it'll be a life long memory for him. Who knows, he may get the woodworking bug, and there could be more days like this. Two thumbs up grandpa, terrific idea and execution, we'll done.
Last walnut I bought, 200 bf. was at $8.40/bf. delivered from Ohio. almost all 4"-6" width, steamed and lots of sap wood. locally now it seems to be about $12/bf. quality unknown. Cherry oak, and maple seem to be holding or falling and are reasonably like prices 5 years ago. Common exotics have fallen and are in the $5/bf. range.
LBD, thanks for performing and documenting those tests. I doubt I’d use a scroll saw enough to justify the cost and space. I do have a jigsaw that I don’t use much, so I’ll keep the inverted approach (great idea) for the next time I need to cut small parts. Mine is a barrel grip Bosch that doesn’t cut with the blade perpendicular to the base. It angles the blade forward at different angles. I’d have to take care to stop the cut a bit early and clean up the intersections by hand. It’d still be better than my coping saw.
I modeled the tree awhile back. I don’t remember it taking too long to rotate the strips. It was probably one of those Zen things where I repeated the same steps so many times I didn’t really think about it. I’ve seen jigs for installing the inserts perfectly perpendicular, but I just did it by eye. I think it helps that the entire insert fit inside the soft poplar inner dowel, and that I used a large pilot hole. It still would have been safer to apply pressure around the outer collar; I’m glad I didn’t have to learn that the hard way.
Pottz, Splint, thanks for the information about your walnut prices. My place also sells what they call calico walnut for about 15/bf, which is still more than Splint can pay locally.
Ron Stewart ....I do have a jigsaw that I don’t use much, so I’ll keep the inverted approach (great idea) for the next time I need to cut small parts. Mine is a barrel grip Bosch that doesn’t cut ....
Sorry it doesn't cut... but Pottzy will explain why!... it's a Bos¢h.
If you try the inverted jigsaw, take care to hold the piece down firm... not a big issue but catches you off guard initially. That's the beauty of the jig... can use both hands.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Sounds like the stuff I got, not a clean line between the heart and sap wood, the sap wood just pops up throughout. Now I know what to call it when I use it!
I’m probably going to regret asking, but what does Pottz have against Bosch?
Splint, it does sound like the same stuff—sort of marbled looking. As names go, calico walnut doesn’t sound too bad. It beats sappy walnut, which is another name I’ve seen.
ron, i have nothing againts bosch, it's the ducks hatred ! i love my bosch tools, and there a lot cheaper than the festool he worships and make love too ! i think he likes the vibration festool sanders make the most 🥰😏
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Splint, that veneer looks interesting. It will really pop with the right finish. The other piece doesn’t even look like walnut. I hope the latter is not our future.
Thanks for the clarification, Pottz. I should have known LBD was yanking your chain. 😁 I like both my Bosch tools (router and jigsaw) and my Festool ones (dust collector and finish sander).