Fritz Flop Puzzle for the "non laserers".

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Boys and Girls,
 
Not trying to be insulting, however, I’m eager to get more of you little boys and big GIRLS (not figurative) into puzzles to exercise theirs, their family’s and friends’ grey matter (and maybe the chagrin of their nemeses), so don’t feel left out ‘cause you don’t have a laser cutter. 
I have stepped back in time,
to an era before lasers and monotonous mono toned ducks, and help you revel in the joys of puzzle making.
 
In a past project, I have demonstrated how to make the pieces out of pine (cubes… so I won’t repeat it here) and for this post, I have chosen my latest Fritz Flop Puzzleproject to make the box with “conventional" powered  tools.  
For a first non-laser exercise, this puzzle was chosen as it only requires straight or 90° cuts using a tablesaw (maybe with a sled) and/or a mitre saw… other boxes would require either a scroll saw, bandsaw, jigsaw … and maybe in spite of the Charged  Mechanical gods’,  the forbidden  Celullose-Lignin gods’ endorsed  hand tools.
 
FAIW, the only use of the laser was to engrave the logo on the base. If you look at gallery picture #6, it may be noticed that the engraving is a tad dodgy.  Unfortunately, while buffing, the spinning buffer ripped the box out of my hands and shattered on the concrete floor… fortunately only into 6 pieces. Not having the laser cut tenons, it was possible to reglue, however a lot of sanding was required which sanded away a lot of the engraving infill… and it’s just about impossible to re-engrave over a previous job… small price to pay for not having to make a new box.
    
Not taking advantage of the precision of a laser, the starting point is an accurate internal dimensions of the box…  55mm x 55mm x 37mm (which allows a 1mm wiggle room in 3D)
which “generated” the following cutlist,
 
based on my standard 18mm³ cubes, 
however,  I will provide dimensions based on ¾ in³ cubes further below (if I don’t forget).
 
I set up my miter saw for cutting the base out of walnut, which I will use as the reference,
Now add 2 x the thickness of your board to the 37mm height and cut a strip on your tablesaw,
Using the above setup of the width of the base, cut two sides out of the strip, and a piece for the top to be trimmed later. Add 2 x the board thickness to reposition the stop block, 
and cut the front and back.
Now it’s a case of aligning your ducks and gluing up.  
I buffed the insides first as I will be using CA which seems to work well on buffed surfaces.  I used my 123 Blocks for alignment as CA glue will stick to anything… it sticks to the 123 Blocks but is easier to remove without destruction, than from my normal wooden assembly jig,
There was more than normal squeeze out of CA due to the lack of tenons as with the laser cuts.
 
Make the 5 puzzle pieces out of your nominated cubes cut by your chosen method (or my suggested in this project),
 
Link to the measurements,which include both metric and imperial based on 3/4” cubes (I didn’t forget).
All I did was take the metric SketchUp diagram and resize from 18mm to ¾”.
For the inside of the box, you will need to allow 1/16” wiggle room in all directions. This means that the base will be 2 ¼” + 1/16” square and the height 1 ½” + 1/16”… depends on the precision of your pieces, you may need to extend the wiggle room by another 1/16”… now you know why I hate imperial.  
You may bugga up the first box, but it will give you the trend for future boxes/puzzles, when you get the bug.
 
I have used a nominal thickness of 4mm, however, you need to use twice your chosen width to change the dimensions described in the body of this post.  Your choice of board thickness will determine the height of the sides and the length of the front depending on the assembly design you choose.  Start with the inside box measurements and add 2 x the board thickness to the dimensions of  any overlapping pieces. 
 
Now you are armed to zip down to your workshop and make a small fortune,
 
The 3DW model with imperial measurements for the BOX based on 3/4" cubes,

 
Anyone interested in my puzzles (or other authors’), you can see them all here in my “Puzzle Collection” .
If interested in any of mine (LBD), measurements can be made available on request for anyone not familiar with SketchUp… though a working knowledge of SketchUp’s navigation (as opposed to its design/use features) and access to 3DW could be of benefit.
Kids love ‘em and most of us are still kids.
 
  

Don’t be crafty  Craftisians,... SHARE  your craft!
 
 

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

29 Comments

It’s 3D Tetris! In wood!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

Just to let you know LBD - I'm currently building a set of these.

I'll post when done

 Steve Rasmussen
 commented about 2 hours ago
Just to let you know LBD - I'm currently building a set of these.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

Actually just finished making a few cubes for current/future puzzles...

about 1/3 way through bevel sanding them. When I get on a production line it's brain stagnates (more than usual) and the robotics take over.
Fast track link in the video (6:35) for bevelling on the lathe



If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

I like it.
1. Hold your left arm out straight in front of you palm upprermost
2.  and swing back vigorously at 45 degrees!
If that doesn't work use the right arm

Regards Rob


 RobsCastle
 commented about 2 hours ago
I like it.
1. Hold your left arm out straight in front of you palm upprermost
Sadist... why are you picking on my dodgy left arm... with your voodoo pins and smoking ceremonies, no wonder it hasn't recovered.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

SteveR, just in case you haven't punished yourself and seen this, but it might help,


If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

I had seen your sanding jig earlier. I used a similar setup on a stationary belt sander. I'm making 4 sets - 72 cubes. No scuffs on the fingers!

 Steve Rasmussen 
... a stationary belt sander....
Would it move if you plugged it in?

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

Oh so the self applied pat on the back didn't go down well?

Regards Rob


 RobsCastle
 commented 27 minutes ago
Oh so the self applied pat on the back didn't go down well?

Sorry RC, bit slow... but then I did go down... knew I did something wrong, didn't have my protractor and went 65°, and....

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

I'm not good with puzzles, the closest I come is my random charcuterie boards and even then they don't fit  -  I have to fill in with resin

 Recycle 1943
 commented 3 minutes ago
new
I'm not good with puzzles, the closest I come is my random charcuterie boards and even then they don't fit  -  I have to fill in with resin

Sounds like the latest one I'm working on.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

 Steve Rasmussen
... a stationary belt sander....
Would it move if you plugged it in?

As in not hand held 🤣😂
well duckie i finally swallowed my pride and actually read this whole tutorial, and even checked out the videos as painful as it was ! now understand im still not gonna make a puzzle any more than your gonna turn a bowl ! i do love your jig for sanding small pieces though. well done.

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

OK I will try again, maybe Melb is 6:30 7:00 from Brisbane using the clock  ray method I will try again.
So this time swing your arm vigorously at 2:00 maybe 2:15  and def not at 7:00  ...  and put Rhonda's washing paddle back!
This should work, ... don't make me come down there!

Regards Rob

sometimes you and the duck speak a language i need a linguist to figure out 😵

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.


 RobsCastle
.....
This should work, ... don't make me come down there!
No cheek spread for your sadism... even if I could perform miracles.  Parting was a sweet sorry... something not to be sat on.

Thanks for the effort Pottzy, actually appreciated, must have been the spanking discussion that motivated you (as in drawn you in for a bit of slap clandestine and tickle that W. may be too proud to participate in)... speaking about SWMBOs, that's why I'll never make a bowl... not cause I absolutely hate them, but I don't want to be nagged about where /what to do with them (stick them)... there is just so much room for bowl for capable people... RC will know what I mean.

As for language... RC is a Queenslander... that's just about as disfunctionsl as a "Son of a Hungarian Fern Cutter".

Pitty you came back into this thread, was hoping eRasmus got you as his tag partner in crime and was trying to bribe him into giving you one of his 4 puzzles for the swap... OOPS,

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 damn ducks you always make me laugh, and thats a damn good thing in this crazy world we are all trapped in ! if you ever change ill fly to Aus. find you and kick your old crippled ass !!! 😍

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.