This is a Hand Stamp Spacing Guide that I made a few years back. I designed it to be used with Lee Valley's 2mm, 3mm and 5mm letter and number stamps. It allows you punch mark wood or metal with clear, evenly spaced characters. Here's the setup: I've clamped it on top of a workpiece secured in my vise. Then you just slip in the Punch Stamp as shown... ... and give it a couple taps with a small to medium size hammer. To punch one letter or number after another, You can move the punch holder by lifting the locking knob to next hole and putting it down to lock. Put in your next letter or number punch and away you go! You can also move half spaces by moving the locking knob to the left hole as shown here. Here's one of my boxes where I've used my Hand Stamp Spacing Guide and punch stamps to identify the box.
Yeah Pottz it works great. Lately I've been using it on my moulding planes. I've used it many times and it's always been consistent in the results. It quite handy!
Ingenious, simply Ingenious. I love the simplicity yet complexity & accuracy of this tool. The half-space adjustment is a valuable feature, and the magnet to always locate each inserted stamp in the same spot was good thinking Rick. One quick question if I might: how did you ensure you drilled the registration holes so perfectly? Thanks Rick, happy stamping.
It’s a good idea. You can even stamp your name on your work and date it. Did you use something to darken the letters? I’m sure if you stained the wood the stamped area would get darker.
Thanks Oldtool! I'm glad you like it and thank you for the kind words.
To answer your question.....
Oldtool ......how did you ensure you drilled the registration holes so perfectly?
Well... the short of it is...I made an "little indexing jig" for making the "letter stamping indexing jig". Sounds crazy I know.
Here's the details.....
I made it on the drill press. You'll need a very straight fence. You'll be advancing your piece so the fence surface needs to be very straight. Here in FIG 1, I am checking my fence. You can clamp down a piece of 2 x 4 for a fence if need be.
FIG 1 The holes you drill and the locking knob shaft have to be exactly the same diameter. I used a 7/32 lipped brad point bit but a twist bit will work fine as well. I made a 7/32 dia dowel to match my bit per FIG 2.
FIG 2
I took a scrap piece of plywood and pushed it against my fence, pencil marked where I wanted the first hole to be, drilled, and moved over 1/4" and drilled another hole. See FIG 3 & 4
FIG 3
FIG 4
Next I glued in a short piece of the 5/32 dowel for the indexing pin.Then I cut it off into a "little indexing jig"
FIG 5
Then you drill your first hole in what will become your "letter stamping indexing jig". Then you place the "little indexing jig" dowel pin into the hole you. Drill again.
FIG 6
Then it's just step and repeat.
FIG 7 Hope I explained this okay. If you have any questions, please ask.
Yep Mr Rick, explanation is very clear and very helpful. Thanks for providing such a detailed answer & original post, I'm always looking to learn anything and everything I can with woodworking. I have a project coming up this year and the indexing jig will make my efforts easier, and more accurate. Thanks.
