This Classic Ogee plane that I originally made worked well but a little difficult to use because I originally made it as an "unsprung" plane. It is now a "sprung" plane. I reworked it improving the fence by lengthening it on bottom left side and also lengthening the depth stop on bottom right side. On the nose I scribed in the "Spring" lines.
This is how the user tilts the plane while using. You are looking at the nose here. The fence is on the right and the depth stop is on the left. It now works very very well! Here are some photos of the profile it makes. The first photo shows the actual profile it cuts.
Here, I've cut the Ogee profile on top and bottom along with some beading.
On top I added a strike button Here's a bottom view
Thanks Oldtool! I made a fair amount of test mouldings and found it difficult to maintain the profile shape over the length. It cut beautiful but one slight slip or change in my movement would affect the outcome. I realized through my testing that the fence and stop where too short. I temporaily added pieces on to validate this and wow! What a difference and with ease. I then permanently modified the plane and now it's beautiful!!
You have a problem though, the decision of what profile you want to use for a project. Could take hours to decide and with each new plane you make it just gets worse 😁
Birdseye49 Beautiful work ! I enjoy reading about your planes. However, I am not a hand tool user and do not understand the sprung versus unsprung designation.
Birdseye49.... here's an explanation...
Purpose: Molding planes are designed to cut specific profiles into wood. The "spring line" helps the user to hold the plane at the precise angle required for that profile to be formed correctly. In addition it helps to shape the profile cutting little at a time with each pass. Expecting a complicated blade curve to cut all in one pass would near be a blunt force nightmare
Location: The spring line is typically found on the front (or toe) of the plane, near the cutting edge.
How it works: By aligning the spring line with the edge of the workpiece, the user can be sure they are holding the plane at the correct angle to produce the desired profile.
Importance: If the plane is not held at the correct angle, the resulting moulding will be distorted or inaccurate. The spring line ensures that the profile is consistent along the length of the workpiece.
Not on all planes: Some molding planes, like hollows and rounds, don't have spring lines because they are designed for more flexible use and can be held at various angles to create custom profiles
I could never figure out why they put the spring line on the toe instead of the heel (where you could see it).
Possibly because you'd have a weak point that may chip when loosening the iron, but there are simple enough ways to sort that - a rectangular strike button at the spring angle would probably be simplest, although you never seem to get strike buttons on moulding planes.
SplinterGroup ...... You have a problem though, the decision of what profile you want to use for a project. Could take hours to decide and with each new plane you make it just gets worse 😁
You're too funny Bruce! LOL! Most of the time it will take a combo of hollows and rounds to make what profile I want.
