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Brian Benham
36 posts
and
13 followers
in about 3 years
in about 3 years
More from Brian Benham
Mid-Century Modern Console Table
This was a collaborative project with Speas interior design. We co-designed the project with the client. Basicaly we got on a Zoom call and I shared my screen and drew in SketchUp while they art directed. "Can we make it a little taller, narrower, etc?" Made with walnut with a wenge-accented drawer box for a subtle contrast between the two woods.
You can watch it be built here.
You can watch it be built here.
The slim floating drawer keeps the profile clean while still offering practical storage, built with traditional dovetail joinery. Open-back construction keeps the piece feeling light in the space. At 66″ W × 12″ D × 32″ H, the proportions are slender by design.
More on this Mid-Century Modern Console Table.
More on this Mid-Century Modern Console Table.
Thanks, Brian @ Benham Design Concepts
14 Comments
Nice project.
Really appreciate the video.
Really appreciate the video.
Petey
Defiantly a unique design. I like the asymmetrical look of it.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Good looking work.
Excellent! There's a lot to appreciate here. The waterfall grain, contrasting wenge & walnut, the asymmetrical design are some of my favorites. The video is well done too.
Very informative Brian!
Really great application of the "L" fence for the miters! In my mind the great thing is if your crosscut goes out of square while pushing, the cut doesn't bite into the project side, you can just make another pass.
The clamp blocks for the miters is something I would like to use more often, but I'm always afraid of attaching them directly to the wood. I'll use blocks with a tail to allow a clamp at 90 degrees to secure them from sliding, but an extra step in making the darn things.
Question is, how do you remove the superglued blocks and avoid chunks of your project from being pulled out? I've never tried it out of fear!
The threaded bolt holes are great, perfect application and no messing with a 90 degree phillips/square drive, just a good ol' socket for access to secure.
Great project and video!
Really great application of the "L" fence for the miters! In my mind the great thing is if your crosscut goes out of square while pushing, the cut doesn't bite into the project side, you can just make another pass.
The clamp blocks for the miters is something I would like to use more often, but I'm always afraid of attaching them directly to the wood. I'll use blocks with a tail to allow a clamp at 90 degrees to secure them from sliding, but an extra step in making the darn things.
Question is, how do you remove the superglued blocks and avoid chunks of your project from being pulled out? I've never tried it out of fear!
The threaded bolt holes are great, perfect application and no messing with a 90 degree phillips/square drive, just a good ol' socket for access to secure.
Great project and video!
awesome work and a great video brian. i have the same question as splint, how do you remove the blocks that are CA glued on ? im afraid to try that also !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Splint,
I have seen hand planes remove the blocks. That is a lot of effort but tight joints. So???
I have seen hand planes remove the blocks. That is a lot of effort but tight joints. So???
Petey
Petey, I've seen that too, but nothing on this scale.
Maybe a sharp rap with a mallet in direct shear on the block?
Maybe a sharp rap with a mallet in direct shear on the block?
im sure brian will chime back with his technique ? id sure find many ways to use it. matter of fact on my next build it would come in handy !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Thanks, guys! For the glue blocks, I use pine, so it is such a soft wood that if any wood grain is going to tear it is going to be the pine. But most of the time, when I hit it with a hammer, it pops off pretty clean. The CA glue is pretty brittle, so it is not a very strong glue. Then any residual glue sands off when I sand the piece for the finish.
Thanks, Brian @ Benham Design Concepts
Thank brian for the tips !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Very nice Brian, to me and maybe not meant that way it looks like a european (Scandinavia in particular) disign.
The clamp blocks for the miters is something I would like to use more often, but I'm always afraid of attaching them directly to the wood. I'll use blocks with a tail to allow a clamp at 90 degrees to secure them from sliding, but an extra step in making the darn things.
Question is, how do you remove the superglued blocks and avoid chunks of your project from being pulled out? I've never tried it out of fear!
im doing a project that is hexagonal and this glue block technique saved the day. i di just like brian said and the blocks popped right off pretty clean. ill be using this more often for hard to clamp projects.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Brian,
Those are good tips. CA glue is brittle. Pine. Brilliant!
Those are good tips. CA glue is brittle. Pine. Brilliant!
Petey
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