FLW "lillies"

60
13
Center panel is about 8" x 11", walnut frame.

Been wanting to try a larger panel with laser cut bits and black dyed resin frame work.
The design is based upon a stained glass panel designed by Frank lloyd Wright for one of his houses. It was never used.
There are a lot of interpretations of the glass and I took aspects from several.
The colors are from the dyed Kote I bought a while back, the flower petals are curly sycamore.

To keep the dye in the resin from getting into the wood fibers I made several changes to my process.

With TransTint dye, the color gets sucked up by the veneer grain, This time I used powdered RIT dye. The stuff doesn't dissolve in the resin so its chunkyness keeps it out of the wood.
I also gave several good coats of lacquer to keep it out of the surface grain. I used shellac before, but the lacquer doesn't pill up the sandpaper when leveling it all out.

The frame is walnut with splined corners, finish is Osmo Polyx.

This is a profile of the frame construction


When assembling the frame, I tried masking the corners from glue squeeze with masking tape since any on the veneer would have been a real pain to deal with.
For the other corners I just applied paste wax up to the joint with a Q-Tip, very fast and easy.


Results were similar with both approaches (no glue in the wrong places), but the wax was wayyyy quicker. The squeeze just popped off.

Thanks for looking!


13 Comments

Interesting and very attractive.   Well done

Ron

That's real purty. I like it!

The Other Steven

looks great splint.

working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

Good tip about using paste wax to prevent glue squeeze out. Nice looking panel too!

"Duck and Bob would be out doin some farming with funny hats on." chrisstef

Super nice Mr. Splint, beautiful creation.
Dang, that's really nice.   I love FLW-inspired projects.  
Beautifully done!

Interested in the wax on the corners to deal with the glue. Do you use wax as your final finish, or do you remove the wax by the joints?
Mucho Garcias ever one!

BB, I remove the wax (Johnsons, really low viscosity so it spreads like warm butta)

I use mineral spirits on a towel to wipe away the wax after picking off the glue buggers. No issues with any top coat I have tried.

Mucho Garcias ever one!

BB, I remove the wax (Johnsons, really low viscosity so it spreads like warm butta)

I use mineral spirits on a towel to wipe away the wax after picking off the glue buggers. No issues with any top coat I have tried.

Is that the discontinued product? I still have about half a can. I've had it for decades and never considered this use for it.

The Other Steven

So nice.  I do love FLW stained glass patterns.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.


Great job Splinter... you are  nailing  lasering the inlays...

Thank the gods yours is out of timber... the lemon I bought in Churchill was previously owned by a chap that was into lead lighting... in fact the workshop was set up to teach lead lighting.  
I have never had any real affection for them and nearly everything in the house had lead lights, light shades, windows, doors, flower pots etc... 
that I have gradually managed to retire/dispose of, except these four that SWMBO refuses permission for,

and it would be too much work... for me!
Lead light glass scraps are still scattered around the garden that get exhumed every time a bird digs for worms.  Took me less than 1 minute to go outside with my camera and find this latest unseen excavation,

... and people wonder why I hate lead-lights.

If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD