Cutting steel for plane blades

I cut harder steel with an angle grinder (WITH a its guard installed) & proper PPE.  Softer steel, I use my portaband.  I haven't tried anything like what you’ve described on my table saw, I'd be worried about scratching the top and and residual saw dust that could become fuel.under the right conditions.

I’ve always used an angle grinder for anything small in the past. I feel like I have more control. That said, I’ve got a slow speed cutoff saw with proper blades for chopping cuts. For shaping, in soft steel, I’ve used a dremel with a bullet shaped abrasive bit. 

Scratching the top wasn't an issue. But you make a good point about sawdust lighting up with the metal sparks. I vacuumed all the inside out before doing so though and there were no issues. I take all safety precautions before anything I do. It's expedient and accurately cuts just as though I was cutting wood but slower. Still... it seemed a little scary because I haven't tried doing this before. I'm rethinking it and wanted to see if anyone else has done this. 

The steel I cut was 1095. Very tough and strong IMO. However cutting was fine. But slow as I said. I would think that annealing the steel first would make it easier to cut. Comments? 

Bandsaw is the only way for me.  

Ken...I don't have a bandsaw. Wish I did. Do you cut a little, cool in water, and continue this way until done? Do you use a special blade for cutting steel?

I go to my best friends tool and die shop, and use his huge metal cutting "Do All" bandsaw. Slick as a whistle, and I've never felt creeped out doing it. I was shaking my head NO while reading about cutting it on a TS. More and more as I grow older I use the TS a lot less for some stuff that when younger I wouldn't have given a second thought to. I find even ripping stock to close to size I use the BS a lot more than I ever did before. If it gets even close to the offcut being small, it goes to the BS. Has to be a wider piece, with just a bit cut off to use the TS. I don't think I think about it, I'm either shaking my head NO, and going to the BS, or not. 

But I admit I also do a dry run cut on every new cut on the TS, and think and look to see if any warning bells go off, 60+ years of TS use, still have all 10 fangers, I think I must be doing it right. Unfortunately I know a lot of guys my age, who can officially use the nickname "Stumpy"

George..... I tried it and it worked but it scared me some so I'm not doing it. Better safe than sorry. What bothered me is that I'm pushing the metal into the spinning disc on the TS and it all counts on my ability to hold it while pushing it thru. If I misjudge the heat build up and can't hold it then I have a flying blade!! No way Jośe! 
I'm doing it with my hand grinder and touching up on the bench grinder at the moment. When cutting it with my hand grinder I can clamp it down on my workmate.
Way way safer!!

I have a little portable bandsaw from HF that's meant for cutting metal Rick.  It's very slow speed.  I just use cutting oil and let the saw do the work.

I use a 4" grinder with a cutting blade. My first thought was saw dust catching on fire inside the table saw. I can cut a lot better with a grinder than a bandsaw. I can't cut a straight line with a portable band saw to save my life.

I bolted a table on my portaband so it’s prtty easy to cut to a line.

Ya know....I cut very straight with a hand grinder too. It's pretty fast with a good quality cut off disc. Heck.. even a cheapo works fine. 

I have a handful of the United Abrasives Sait disks. They work great. I also have some no name brand. They work fine also. 

The ones I like are Taipan's platinum