Rust accumulation

These work for me Mike

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038N30OY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001UYEBNW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1YJRVTT8SCWYV4X195YH

Spray some dw40 on your tools after work.

I guess the thing I don’t like about WD 40 is that it contains silicone and that can hang around the shop for every and mess up your finishing. Sorry too disagree Mike.

I’ll have to make/create some sort of enclosed cabinet for the planes to use the Silica Gel Packets, but good idea. I have tended to agree about dw40 and have always steered clear of it with my tools. I didn’t know if it was an old wives tail of if there was any truth to it, so I decided to look it up just now.. from their sight: http://wd40.com/faqs
“While the ingredients in WD-40® Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40® Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons "
They appear to have a new line of stuff http://www.wd40specialist.com/ one is a rust inhibitor
In either case, I would hate to have something on my tool that would mess up a finish, so I may have to do some experimentation. I can try it on one of my crap planes (versus a good plane) and see how it works. It does dry, so it seems like if I rub the plane against some wood without any cut after it has dried would be the worse case for transfer.

Here’s a spec sheet on WD40

http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924928

a1jim, I don’t know where you got that MSDS, but it is not for WD40! Here is the link to WD-40 Company’s MSDS/SDS: http://wd40company.com/files/pdf/sds/mup/wd-40-multi-use-product-aerosol-sds-us-ghs-7-20-14.pdf (note that only the non-aerosol containers can be sold in California, where it is made).

The product you have the MSDS for is a pure(?) silicone liquid (Polydimethylsiloxane, Trimethylsiloxy-Terminated (C2H6OSi)n CAS: 63148-62-9 or 9006-65-9) manufactured and sold by ScienceLab.com. It is available only in 1Kg containers for a price of about $252.

WD-40 Multi-Use Product, on the other hand, is a NON-silicone, predominately petroleum product. It is packaged and sold in “pen” sized containers up to (at least) 55 gallon drums. I used the 55G drums in a custom harvesting (farming) business.

In the 1960s, I had a friend who was a nearby neighbor of Norm Larsen, the founder of WD-40 Co’s predecessor, Rocket Chemical Corp. (in his garage). We would complain of his shop smelling of fish, and he would smile and tell us that it was the odor of some of the ingredients – he would never say what all was in the formula.

a1jim, I’m sorry if I came off a bit antagonistic, that was not the intention. I have seen the debate over whether WD-40 does or does-not contain silicone for years. I feel very comfortable in believing that is does not, due to conversations with Mr. Larson. I will confide that I was a high school student at the time.

I’ve been having good luck with T-9 Boesheild

DL
I got the spec sheet off of a web site that all posters said WD40 did have silicone ,if the spec sheet is wrong I guess I did not read it well enough . This is not a subject I have to be right about ,if I’m wrong I’m wrong. No offence taken by your post.

There’s so much myth and mystery about WD40! I’d never heard about the silicon claims until now. A quick websearch and I saw equal amount of people claiming it has silicon as people claiming that it doesn’t. The MSDS from the WD40 website doesn’t mention silicon, just petroleum distillates, but there is listed 10% “proprietary ingredients” that they don’t specifically list what they are…

That said, I use WD40 both as a lubricant to sharpen on my diamond stones and to wipe the planes off when I put them away. Also have several rust inhibiting mats that I store the planes on. Several times/year I have to take fine steel wool or sandpaper and clean off surface rust but that is just part of routine maintenance.

Lie-Nielsen has a jojoba oil they say is a non-toxic, odorless, liquid wax that protects tools from rust.

I wonder if that would work for cutting boards, etc.?

I have tried jojoba oil. It works ok for a short time, but I think my problem is a bit of salt air. Probably need to stick the planes in something that protects them a bit from the air.

I’m surprised that wax is not effective. There’s probably some moisture trapped under the wax that’s causing the rust. I bet a mineral oil/bees wax mix would work and that definitely wouldn’t harm the finish. Probably best to give the sole a quick wipe with mineral spirits before using.

Good idea. I’ll give it a shot. Just finished truing up a real piece of crap plane. I figure if I can true it up, I can true any plane. Tried it out and getting very fine shavings. Likely won’t use the plane for any fine woodworking; the frog is very difficult to adjust, so I can’t close down the mouth effectively.

The widely accepted rust prevention for planes is camellia oil. I can’t get that here so I use WD-40. I read somewhere that it has fish oil in it, but I’m not sure that is correct. I have used it without any finishing problems but maybe others have had different experiences with it.

I also use my own thin blend of lamp oil mixed with a little motor oil and that works very well too.

The only steel table I have is on my bandsaw. I do oil and wax that and it works well, but you do have to redo it occasionally. The wax also helps the work pieces slide smoother.

I bought some Jojoba oil (Amazon, 1/2 the price of LN) and have been using it for several months. I keep a rag soaked in it in a small sealed plastic container, adn wipe the planes (and chisels, and scrapers) after each use. So, after 2 of the rainiest months this region has ever seen…they are still rust free.

mike this is a big problem for me also,i have a 8ft basement under my shop, and it causes lots of moisture. I,ve used dehumidifiers but running them 24/7 adds up. I use camphor blocks in Dwr,s boxes ,cabinets, tool boxes, drill bit cases, with clamps,just about any where there is steel. You can get them at most drug stores, but they can be a little pricey ,about $20 to $30 dollars for about 50ps.they stink like the old vicks rub when we where kids, but they work ,and bring back some old memories of Mom,

I keep my them in a cabinet with a tub of DampRid. Works well for me. I also coat with jojoba oil before putting away.

I only use wd40 after on the blades after I’m done with my water stones.

I live in a pretty humid environment and I’ve never had much luck with wax.

There are other products like BoeShield I seem to only use it on my machines but I think it would work on hand tools.