9 Comments

This is a great wealth of info for those of us looking to do this in the future. Thanks for the great pics and information while learning yourself it’s like we are right with you discovering alongside.

Good learning process here. Many folks before you have just quit at the first failure and given up on the best glue around. Good for you for persevering. Hammer veneering requires a learning curve but once you “get it”, you will be able to do things that can be done no other way.
A few points
a) You can put that scraped up glue back in the pot
b) You don’t have to remove all the old glue.
c) The easiest way to remove the last of the old glue, if you need to, is with water and a scrubbing pad.

This looks much better. I can’t wait to see the project post of the veneer box now.

Congrats on the exercise. I think I may give you an “A”. :-)

I agree with Thorreain, just learning so much by reading this. Thanks again for keeping us in the loop.

Thanks Chris and Alec.

Paul: The honest truth is I though of quitting at least a hundred times. But like all things one must invest time and resources to learn it.
I was not sure of the temperature of the steam when it hit the glue. I know it’s about 212 degree Fahrenheit when it the top of the veneer. So I wanted to err on the side of caution and dumped the glue I scraped just in case.
I probably over did it.

Yeahhhh!. Thanks for the A :)
seriously thank you for all your support.

Probably a good idea. The steam likely saved you on the temperature. Hide glue doesn’t like high temperatures. A dry iron that hot would burn it and ruin the surface. What I keep in mind is that the glue is made out of the same stuff as me so if something is hot enough to burn me ………
:-)

I ordered some pearl hide rated at 150g, it should give me a little more open time.
We will see how it works.

I like your approach to this Abbas. A great way to get some real experience before doing an actual project. I know you will have this mastered before you go on to the coffee table.

Some add a little salt to increase the open time, but I have no idea in what proportions.Another, and perhaps better alternative would be to heat the substrate before hammer veneering. You could use a heat gun or even a hair dry blower for that. Good luck moving forward!

Thanks Mike,

The batch I am using now has 30% by weight. I am experimenting to see how much extra time I get.
It look like about 3 to 4 minutes. I can hammer a 10×40″ veneer piece comfortably.
I think it’s going to come down to using both heat and some salt.

Yesterday I had to deal with veneer movement at the joint line rising to a reverse “v”.

Having fun, lot’s of surprises.

Keep posting man, I’m hanging on every post and pic….