I wanted to make a frame for this collage of Seattle scenes. I have long admired the features of several Arts & Crafts mantel clocks and wanted to incorporate some similar features. I came up with a frame that has flared sides, an arched bottom, and an oversized top.
I selected a piece of lacewood from my lumber supply.
Before the glue up, I routed rabbets for the glass & mat. I made a wider rabbet for an oversized backing panel. I also routed a 1/8” radius on the front.
I masked the faces of the miters to keep the glue out of pores of the lacewood. You can see how the miter at the top does not meet at the corner. The details at the top required extra wood there.
I used General Finishes semi-gloss varnish.
Here are a few dimensions for scale. I missed a few dimensions to describe the curve on each side: - The distance between the tips of the curve at the bottom are 11 3/8". - The curve is a radius of about 175". - The curve starts at the bottom of the trim at the top of the frame. - The curve meets the bottom at an angle of 6.85 degrees off vertical
The angle for the slope on the bottom of the top is 10 degrees.
I've never used lacewood. Is it usually a problem with the glue in the pores? I wonder if using liquid hide glue would work better that PVA. You can clean up glue squeeze out with water
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Thanks for the comments! Nathan - I'm not sure if the glue would be a problem. I figured the safe thing was to mask the joint. The porosity is about like some oak.