I made this "bench hook style" cutting jig specifically for cutting various length dowels when making the barrels for hinges. It is designed to cut any length up to 4" long for 1/4" and 3/8" diameter dowels.
What's the big deal you might say?
This jig's cutting slot is exactly a match for my extra fine dozuki saw. The kerf is exactly 0.3mm (0.010").
So when the saw is placed in the slot it cuts a face on the dowel that is dead on perpendicular to the dowel's axis. This way when barrels are assembled the faces fit so well that the line between the intersecting faces pretty much disappears.
Here you see 1" lines as reference for cutting desired lengths.
Here you see the bench hooks. One end is for 1/4" and the other for 3/8".
They are flipped upside down so while one end is being used to cut dowels, the other end hooks over the bench.
The actual 1/4" and 3/8" dowel grooves sit slightly above the board surface and form an arc slightly bigger than 180°. This provides a fit that acts as a lock so any dowel movement while cutting is mitigated.
Thanks for looking!
Feel free to comment, ask questions and "thumbs up 👍" if you like it!
Sweet! That saw is a pull-saw right? I have something kinda similar for cutting G&G plugs off of square strips of ebony, 1/4" or 3/8". They need to be about 1/8" tall so I have a stop glued into the strip kerf so I can just side them down for the length. Handy jig to have when you cut multiples of something like dowels 👍
SplinterGroup..... yes it cuts on the pull. I love Greene and Greene stuff. Ever watch William Ng on YouTube. He has some great techniques for cutting plugs, etc.
For a Japanese pull saw, I would have thought that support on the near end of the jig would have been better... but then I'm far from a handtool officianado. Is there a reason why the base board being so wide? I'm guessing its your comfort zone and that with orientation you can see the markings for the different lengths, with my eyesight the focal length would be a challenge, exacerbated by my short(er) arms.
This jig's cutting slot is exactly a match for my extra fine dozuki saw. The kerf is exactly 0.3mm (0.010").
The one I made years ago was not the showpiece like yours, but was a tad fancier than what I have now. Either my handtool skills are badly lacking or my kakuri was a dopelgagnger made in China, but as with my current one, the kerf keeps eating too much sawdust and widening at the girth requiring a new kerf cut or a quick dirty remake from whatever scraps I have. I have found that placing the dowel on the near edge, a single pull of the kakuri will sever all connection.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
LBD.... thanks. There's no reason my base needs to be as big as it is but it's comfortable. It may be better to have the dowel groove stop nearer the front edge to work on the pull and I can see this if it could be placed to hook over a workmate front edge. But because I'm doing it as described is the reason I made a locking groove to hold the dowel while making a pull cut. Good point though.
I really like how that guy thinks, great at explaining with stuff like his 5-cut method for miter guide alignment. Obscenely accurate.
For a long time I used his doming technique for the ebony plugs with the drill. Problem was that even with my 1/2" chuck I could not hold 3/8" sticks and the wrist motions were killer on these tired bones. I went more direct by using my drill press with a 4-jaw chuck. Makes more sense with a square stick versus the typical 3-jaw. Having a lathe would be even easier, but I haven't jumped off that bridge yet.
I've used the drill press technique and it's a great idea. I still use the sandpaper and foam under the chucked up stock and plunge away. Works great. Yeah... Don't see William Ng post any more on YouTube but he's a great teacher. Guess he's too busy with his woodworking school.
MrRick .... is the reason I made a locking groove to hold the dowel while making a pull cut.
Call me thick, but never late for drinks, I couldn't follow how the "auto" lock worked... though with a good dozuki, the cut could be affected with just the initial push through. Anyway, that was my excuse for butting in with my thoughts.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Duckie.... technically having a grooved stop as you mention on the end you pull the saw would be better but I'm hooking the whole bench hook over the front edge of my work bench. Anyways the groove actually works very well. Your thoughts are welcome. 👍
