Fun With Sand (Glass Etch)

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 FIRST, keep in mind, white silica sand is nasty stuff to breathe. As such, you need an HONEST respirator to do this, and not just an N95 or handkerchief. I even blew myself off after each project, and had a dedicated space, where I could contain all the sand. 

These, ALL, were done just using a 1 hp, Craftsman air compressor running 45 PSI (half that for the shading, so you sneak into the shading).

The air compressor pushed air through a cheap, siphon feed sandblaster.  I, now, have a pressure pot and used it to do a couple doors for friends. It might be great for carving (using a 3-M or equivalent resist medium (the thing you put your pattern on and cut out, so the sand can etch the glass or plastic)), but it went through 100 pounds in no time. My siphon blaster would have used far less and lasted FAR longer.

For all of these, I used common, white, silica sand. The kind used in cement work and available at big box stores.  It has to be kept dry, or you'll get sputtering and clumps of sand, instead of a smooth stream. In short, your project might not survive.

Because I ran at such low air pressure, compared to the folks doing amazing work that includes actual shaping of glass, I did all of these just using common contact paper. My preference was a kind of cream color. It showed ink pen lines far better than even white.

To draw pattern, I've used carbon paper and even taped a photo to the back of something and resorted to clear contact. Now, I have two opaque projectors that can blow up a belt buckle, like was used to do the bucking bull and horse (done on the back of a guy's 4x4). They allowed me to go all the way down to details like the checks in the cowboy's shirt.

The point of all this is, to show others they can bring a whole new game to their woodworking and other projects (e.g., see photos I posted of my old truck (69 Chev step side) I used to drive about forty years ago).

TIP: I use Exacto knives. You'll find you'll break a tip in seconds. After all, who cares if you scratch the glass, and you have to insure all your cuts are complete, so you don't lift the wrong part of the contact paper or other resistance. Instead of swapping blades and going through a lot of them, just have a cheap 400 grit diamond stone on hand to shape a tip back onto the blade and sharpen that. It's quick, easy and will last. Mine is years old.
Wow, thar's some beautiful work!

Steven- Random Orbital Nailer

Interesting stuff Kelly!

I've done a ton of sandblasting over the years (just metal cleanup) and still have a few siphon guns. Remember shaking them to get things flowing, very frustrating.

I never tried glass until my wife (a fused glass fanatic) wanted me to try some stuff on various art glasses. Never did break out the siphon gun, but when I got my laser I told her the potential for using it on glass.
Just "lasing" plain glass doesn't work so well, it needs something to transfer the heat and "spall" the glass for the frosted look.
Black paint does the trick.
I brushed on some tempura paint and ran a test pattern to find the best speed/power.
This is edge lit glass:


You can see the brush strokes which don't happen with spray paint. Using white paint with titanium dioxide will fuse black into the areas where the laser hits. Kinda neat to be able to etch in either frosted, or black.

Her glass has iridescent coatings which at the right laser power will burn away these coatings. If she puts them in the kiln to "fire polish", the frosting melts back into clear and I can get some neat images.

With sandblasting, you make a mask so I tried cutting some self adhesive shelf vinyl and making my own sand blasting masks.

That worked well, but I figured lasing the glass through the paint was easier.

I then though about using the laser cut mask to remove the silver from the back of a mirror.
I applied the shelf vinyl  and set the laser to just barely burn away the vinyl but leave the mirror silver intact.

Applying the vinyl to the mirror allows for disconnected sections versus cutting the mask (stencil) and applying.

The mask resists a weak acid I brushed on and the acid removed the silver so I had clear areas on the mirror




Been tempted to try other stuff like your work, but of course it would need to be on a much smaller scale since I can't bring the tool to the work.

Your talent shows! Basically air brushing with sand 👍

Very talented. Special work well done

Ron

What an interesting world the blend of the two worlds (laser etch and sandblast) would be,  SplinterGroup.

[Dammit, wife already believes I have too many toys, uh, tools [right up until she needs something done we'd have to hire out].


A SIDE NOTE: I rescued many a piece of tempered glass or a 1/2" thick mirror use in things like those computers you used to see on old Navy movies. The ones with the sailor sitting in front of a screen showing blips of light.

One of the things I discovered, by accident, was the major effect of heavy blasting and paint, or silver plating.

I swiped a [somewhat] octagon shaped mirror before it hit the dumpster. I etched a unicorn into it (people were heavy into them) and went heavy on the etch, even though, as noted above, I was only running at about 45 PSI. I etched it from the plated side (the way they used such mirrors).

I framed the done etch and hung it on the wall, which had a really ugly floral pattern. That gave me a really ugly floral patterned unicorn. I took it out to the shop and sprayed it with silver paint. When I did, all the heavy etch, before not discernable, jumped out.

Hmmm

I called a mirror re-plating place and learned I could get mirrors re-plated for about $4.00 per square foot. They warned me against their process, because the different depths would cause details to show. SNORT - SCORE

Even common spray paint totally changed the lightly carved etch. Muscles, before not apparent, jumped out.