Need construction ideas

lanwater
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I am dying to try my hands on a couple of Enrico Konig work. I accumulated pictures of his pieces and have been analyzing it for a while.

I am eyeing this coffee table.

The glass top will obviously be bought.

I am thinking the following:
- Body would be 1/4 inch ply tapered on the drum sander and laminated on a form.
-I will probably try 1/8 tick ply and 1/4 to see which one works best once I build the form.
For that kind of radius I think 1/4 should work fine without much “cracking”
-The middle layer will be ordinary 1/4 or 1/8 ply
-Visible layer will be 1/8 and 1/4 with a good face that is walnut or mahogany. I located those at the lumber yard.

What I am struggling with is the face edges on the main body and the ends towards the top. See arrows below

-I have never done veneer and do not have any tools for it. No bag, no pump etc… And almost zero knowledge.

-If I cut few arcs on the bandsaw and but join them even at angle, it would be visible.

I need your input. keep in mind the taper from the bottom to both ends.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Not 100% clear on what you want, but when cutting and then joining, if the cuits are in line with the grain, then the cut should not show. Can’t advise on veneering, but someone will soon pop up and help.

Love to keep busy in retirement - http://www.getwoodworking.com/albums/member_album.asp?a=33974

You could edge band. I edge banded the inside of a circle once using a curling iron. It was round (tubular actually) so I was able to press it in to transfer the heat where a regular iron wouldn’t go.

Losing fingers since 1969

I’m a rookie when it comes to veneer Abbas so I won’t even try giving you advice on this, but I can tell you that I love the table design and wood, so I’m hoping you will blog the build so we can learn along with you.

Mike, an American living in Norway

Wow this is an ambisious project. When i look at the piece as one piece of wood, it is a carving to me. Just take a large piece of wood and carve away everything that does not look like the table. Lol… But seriously, if it were me i would laminate giant plywood pieces in the shape of a “C”, making 2 of each, laminating 1 at a time moving towards the center. Each pair would be slightly diffrent to give the compound curves of the table. Once all glued up shape it to the actual shape with various power tools then add the veneer to all the surfaces. But thats just me and i have alot of power carving tools. Whatever you decide to do with it i will be following closely as is is an amazing piece. Thanks Ian

CHRIS, Charlottetown PEI Canada. Anytime you can repurpose, reuse, or recycle, everyone wins!

The edges you are concerned with shouldnt give too much trouble using edge banding. The curves do not seem very extreme. I have edge banded a 6" radius curve both convex and concave before using both contact cement and iron on edge. Any tighter than that and i would worry about cracking and delamination.

CHRIS, Charlottetown PEI Canada. Anytime you can repurpose, reuse, or recycle, everyone wins!

I like Thorreain’s idea as it looks like compound curves to me as well.
If it were me from there on I would hammer veneer it. It would be a very difficult vacuum bag job because with compound curves the veneer would have to be several perfectly jointed pieces. That’s not hard when hammer veneering. You just lay on one strip, overlap the next, run a knife on the joint line, remove/peel up and remove the scrap and hammer back down. It would be best to use an “underlay” veneer to help eliminate print through of the substrate.
If you go with a flat lamination, hammer veneering is still the best alternative for edges. That way you can match the exotic veneer that should be used on an exotic design like this. I don’t know what is on the one in the picture but it looks. A little like Pao Ferro to me. Something like that would suit the piece anyway.

This is an ambitious undertaking. I’d be using all my wiles to pull it off and I might not succeed. I applaud your quest.

The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.

Thanks you all for the replies.

Now you got me scared (:-

Edging like this picture I understand:

But I think it would have to be edging this way:

That will show a lot of cut lines. I am not delicate when I work.

I have the feeling I am going to have to learn veneering. Even if I do that it will take years to get any experience.

Cutting a large ply “ring” and applying it on the edge is workable but I will have to recess it between the top most layer and the bottom one to hide the ply ring edge since it is not solid wood….

That brings more issues:
1- the big body lamination will have to be flush trimmed with a hand held router. That will mean I would loose any recess I may have created during lamination.
2- Because of the taper it will be hard for me to recreate that recess. I think it’s doable if I make some nice jig to guide the router.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Very tempting Paul…
" That’s not hard when hammer veneering. You just lay on one strip, overlap the next, run a knife on the joint line, remove/peel up and remove the scrap and hammer back down. It would be best to use an “underlay” veneer to help eliminate print through of the substrate."

At least I can practice that see how bad I am.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Malcolm & Mark: I can see the grain idea with strait surface. On vertical edge curve I think I am going to have interruption.
I have seen it done with cutting the edge at 45 degree and but join so you don’t see a straight line.

I can definitely try on a smaller scale to see how best to orient the grain to minimize the interruption.

Mike: When I take the plunge, I t will be in the open. Success and failures.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Brian, Thorreain: I am going to swing by the lumber store and buy some edging to see how it would go.
I am not visualizing it correctly. I have the feeling it would be like the picture below but more pronouced because of the multi-plane edge.

Abbas, Castro Valley, CA