Today I built the door. I’m exhausted so I’ll keep this short and let the pictures do most of the talking. It wasn’t just door making today. I had a drain so clogged that I broke down and called a plumber. Long day.
Anyway, I started by planing my 2×6s down to 1-3/8" thick. I use this standard thickness so the hardware will fit.
I went a bit over 1-3/8, but no big deal. My harbor freight calipers do the trick well enough. There will be plenty more shaping to come.
I filled up my barrel about 25% full with shavings. I made an adapter for my orange cone/bucket separator. Works great. No clogs on the planer, good suction and I don’t have to worry about emptying the little 5 gallon bucket every 5 minutes.
Then I jointed the 2bys using my jointer sled.
Then I went to my computer and printed out the plan. I have an excel spreadsheet that spits out all the dimensions based on the width I want.
Then I cut all the rails to length. In this case, I’m making a 30" door and I decided to make it actually 30" wide (unlike store bought doors which are up to half an inch narrower than their nominal width). My doors have 2" tenons on the rails. Very sturdy. So the rails must be cut to 26” in length since both rails and stiles will be 4" wide.
Next, I glued 2 rails together to make the bottom rail, which must be larger for both aesthetic purposes and so it can be cut to height without compromising the 4" sizing. It will ultimately end up being about 5-1/2" tall, and after jointing I was shy by maybe 1/4". I his I could have lived with that, but why not go for the best I can do?
Next I dadoed the stiles with a continuous 2″ × 1/2" mortise. I did this in 2 passes of 1" each using my stacked dado.
Next I set up my tenon jig to cut 1/2" tenons on all the rails. Here’s where I ran into some problems. I have not made a zero clearance plate for the dado blades. On a couple of cuts, the rails fell slightly into the table throat. That caused some whackiness with the tenon shoulders. I’m going to have to do some extra filling when it comes time to finish. Oh well. Stuff happens. I am sure I can fix it by filling. I’m just not sure if the filler will last. We’ll see.
Then I lowered the blade to 1/2" height and cut the grooves that the panels will sit in. The middle rails get grooves on both sides, the top and bottom on only one side.
Next I cut the panels from 1/2" plywood. I cut them slightly shorter than 26" so they would have room to bounce around. The height is 12" and since they are placed inside 1/2" dados on the rails, 11" will be exposed. The exact height also helps when I go to assemble as they will also act as spacers.
Next I assembled the door. No pictures of that unfortunately but I was frantically gluing and working against the clock. To assemble, I laid one stile on the floor with the dado up, them spread glue on the tenon of the bottom rail, inserted the rail into the stile, then checked for squareness using a framing square, then put a panel, then repeating the process for all the other rails and panels until they were all in. Then I spread glue on the other ends of the rails and laid the other stile over all the rail tenons and panels. I beat the stile down with a rubber mallet to get it tight. Them I laid paper over my saw table (flattest surface I have) and put the assembled door there. Then I put a clamp width wise over every rail. Them I clamped the whole door to the table using cauls. This is very important. When the glue sets, that’s the shape so of you want the door to be flat you need to clamp it to a flat surface.
And that’s it for today. Tomorrow night of I have time, I’ll start sanding and filling. Good night!
-- Losing fingers since 1969