Screw stem plough plane made out of beech & spalted beech
Somewhat bigger and curvier than the traditional ones.
Main body is a sandwich of spalted beech with a beech core, screws are birch and the strike points and wedge are bubinga.
Made with hand tools only, feel free to give advice, abuse and criticism.
More of a step-by-step ramble than a project but here we go.
Lay out the shape for the main body and cut to rough size.
Drill a couple of holes as the starter for the handle.
Chisel out the bed for the irons & test fit.
Flatten the board, testing out the £6 Aldi plane, works surprisingly well as a smoother, tight mouth, needed some reshaping of the handles but a lot better than I expected.
Cut the rebate for the skate, scrap of walnut clamped as a hi-tech saw guide.
Clean up the router plane I made a bit back, didn't seem to take a picture of this.
Fit the skate.
Layout where the depth stop is going.
And saw and chisel out the channel.
So far I've been working with solid beech, time to bring in the spalted beech.
Smooth & square it up.
Resaw it to width.
And smooth and square again.
Mark up where it's going, not tall enough for the handle, so glue some up.
Make the screw threads while it's gluing.
Dip the birch dowels in BLO.
And thread the screws, always want to keep going and make loads of these when I start, very moreish.
Glue up a spalted beech panel to the main body of the plane, just doing the one side so it's simpler to shape.
These are my favourite type of clamp.
And cut the channel in the spalted beech for the depth stop.
Shape the handle with rasps.
Chisel out the waste to connect the two handle holes.
Layout where the screw stems will go.
Drill out the holes for the screw stem and the handle.
Starting to look a bit like a plane.
Glue on the other panel, no glue behind the handle as that bit is going to be removed.
Break out the moulding planes for some shaping.
Fit the depth stop adjuster.
Fit the plate for the depth stop locking screw, had to improvise with a chisel and knife, never tried to do an inlay before, turned out OK, could have been a bit tighter. I can fill a bit later if it looks obvious.
I think I'll get away without filling it.
Fit the skate, shouldn't need to come off again now.
Cut out the nuts, not sure if a hand brace is a bad choice to use with a hole saw or I've just got a really cheap hole saw (probably the cheap blade), but it doesn't cut smooth, easy enough to straighten up later I guess.
Tap the nuts.
On to the front of the plane, just shape it to match the front skate.
Make the bits (no clue of the name) that attach the stems to the fence.
Just square them up, cut a space for the nuts and tap a hole.
Onto the fence, not decided what shape this is going to be yet, so just keep removing wood until I like the feel of it, didn't seem to take any pictures of this.
Drill the holes and inlay the brass for the attachment screws.
Starting to look like a plough plane.
Fit the strike points for microadjustments, chisel out a slot at the front.
The (probably) bubinga I had was a pen blank so I need to glue up some cut offs to make wide enough endgrain plugs for the strike points.
And fit to the slot. Then shape to match teh front of the plane with a rasp.
Thats the one on the front to advance the iron done.
And repeat on the top to retract the iron.
Cut out a slot in the fence to allow the depth stop to work in rebates.
And that's it, oil it up and good to go.
I think I'll probably re-do the nuts in bubinga when I get around to it.
Should probably have split this into a few different blogs, and I think I've skipped a few steps but couldn't post as I went along because of the plane swap that was going on at the time.
I still haven't got around to redoing the nuts in bubinga.