So, as is becoming common with my boxes, I made a panel that needed a home.
The panel is a Penrose tiling. Penrose was a British mathematician who derived some interesting geometric properties with shapes. This uses only two shapes called "kites" and "darts" .
Anyway, usual stuff, I wanted to use the laser to cut up some scraps of veneer (maple) and some dyes to see what can happen. Started out trying to keep the pattern/colors symmetric, but after a few hours and more beer, things diverged. Ended up with a panel, dyed on the top and un-dyed below. Now for a box
Always trying new corner joinery stuff and mixed media. Made some side panels with mahogany and corner blocks (Jatoba) that were cut with the needed shape as a single piece, then sectioned. With veneered panels, I like to place the edges into grooves to lock in the veneer and hide any chipout.
Panels extend a bit top/bottom for the same reason and provide a solid connection for mitered and splined walnut frames. This is for the bottom with a relief to drop in a fuzzy bottom panel. Top frame was same dimensions, just flush with the side panel on the inside.
You can see small diameter "pits" at each corner. These were to trap some copper rods between the two frames when assembled. Careful layout hopefully will let the rods fit nicely into the corners which have a groove.
Patina applied of course!
The lid would be set into another frame (side profile) Also shaped as a long stick then cut with the miters to length.
The Hinges
These are the hinges I reviewed earlier. A simple router jig sized for this box was made from scraps of BB plywood. Used the router to clean out the space for the hinge leafs.
(jig slipped over the frame) The sides have bars to fit over the frame edges for centering and spacers were glued in place that fitted up against the hinge leafs. The jig will be flipped for the lid so any offsets cancel out. Fairly thick so my small mortise bits guide bearing can follow the jig. Just get the depth dialed in (1/2 the hinge barrel thickness - a small amount)
Repeat for the lid frame.
The feet are just two coved bits mitered together and set in the corners. I used a square scrap and two pieces of key stock to align everything and keep all the corners the same.
With the lid fitted, the shape allows for a bit of a stop for the lid swing.
Interior is fitted with 3/16" walnut. This fits into the recess on the lid frame nicely. At about 5" deep, a walnut tray was added. 1/4" corner blocks keep it near the top so the bottom space doesn't get items smushed.
Tray has box joint corners
and a funky frog drawer pull that has been collecting dust
Not so thrilled with the outcome, a bit ordinary but it'll do.
Finished with Osmo polyx, 7" tall, 12" wide and 9" deep.
Thanks poeple! Hopefully the frog ends up being a + versus -, but never can tell.
Steven, I liked the concept of these corners, but next time I'll make the corners wider and darker so the copper shows up better. Could also go lighter (maple?)
SWMBO commented that the pattern instantly eliminated 50% of the buyers since "no dude" in their right mind would be seen with something like that.
Mr. Splinter, Sorry to say you're wrong, "a bit ordinary", no way, this is a beautiful creation. The amount of time and thought that went into this box is quite extensive. I like the details, like the corners molded retain the sides while also having a contrasting wood, the bead around the opening which fits into the lid, veneering with the color array, all looks super. Nice work.
Usually I'll just go for it, but with this I decided to make some CAD (2D) drawings to be sure I got the dimensions correct. I started with the panel and a basic frame to get the general dimensions of the box area. Based on my scrap/cutoff availability, I modify to use what I have (I hate cutting up full boards)!
Either way, I'll sketch everything so I can be sure it will go together and get the joint lines right.
James, Fun factoid about this pattern is you can only make 7 shapes from a combination of kite/dart pieces that allow it to all fit. If you stray, some combos won't show up as problems until a few iterations down the rabbit hole.
I use a full size picture to help me avoid this (still screw up often enough!)
Shit Splint, you trying to outdo me for the longest post... I try to outdo Australia Post, who take on average 2 weeks to deliver any mail I send to my next door neighbour (we don't speak cordially... only over vino), but you are making Castaways's FEDX service look like Amazon's next day delivery... great job!
That corner joinery is something else... not implying that no one else has ever used them, however, I haven't seen anyone else get off their arses to explain/show them in detail... great, and on behalf of the silent majority... thanks. Actually there are too many highlights to elucidate, if I want to make it to Christmas drinks.
Late EDIT: This comment probably took twice as long to write as your entire project. Your router jig, rang bells and I made a beeline down to the workshop, found my thingo, but then stupidly tried to find the manual for how to use it and after hours of searching, continued this typing. I picked up about 17 years ago from Carbatec before my move to Churchill, used once and shelved... Once found online and named, I managed to download the manual and after RTFMing, is similar to your jig, but adjustable/reusable... just don't (anyone) dare ask me how to use it.
Sad to see you ran out of paint... you could've Photo-Shopped it,
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
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