Penrose Box

So, as is becoming common with my boxes, I made a panel that needed a home.

The panel is a Penrose tiling. Penrose was a British mathematician who derived some interesting geometric properties with shapes. This uses only two shapes called "kites" and "darts"
.

Fun with designs and more info can be found here.

Anyway, usual stuff, I wanted to use the laser to cut up some scraps of veneer (maple) and some dyes to see what can happen.
Started out trying to keep the pattern/colors symmetric, but after a few hours and more beer, things diverged.
Ended up with a panel, dyed on the top and un-dyed below.
Now for a box

Always trying new corner joinery stuff and mixed media. Made some side panels with mahogany and corner blocks (Jatoba) that were cut with the needed shape as a single piece, then sectioned.

With veneered panels, I like to place the edges into grooves to lock in the veneer and hide any chipout.

Panels extend a bit top/bottom for the same reason and provide a solid connection for mitered and splined walnut frames.

This is for the bottom with a relief to drop in a fuzzy bottom panel.

Top frame was same dimensions, just flush with the side panel on the inside.

You can see small diameter "pits" at each corner. These were to trap some copper rods between the two frames when assembled. Careful layout hopefully will let the rods fit nicely into the corners which have a groove.

Patina applied of course!

The lid would be set into another frame
(side profile)

Also shaped as a long stick then cut with the miters to length.

The Hinges


These are the hinges I reviewed earlier.
A simple router jig sized for this box was made from scraps of BB plywood.

Used the router to clean out the space for the hinge leafs.

(jig slipped over the frame)

The sides have bars to fit over the frame edges for centering and spacers were glued in place that fitted up against the hinge leafs.
The jig will be flipped for the lid so any offsets cancel out.

Fairly thick so my small mortise bits guide bearing can follow the jig.
Just get the depth dialed in (1/2 the hinge barrel thickness + a small amount)

Repeat for the lid frame.

The feet are just two coved bits mitered together and set in the corners.
I used a square scrap and two pieces of key stock to align everything and keep all the corners the same.

With the lid fitted, the shape allows for a bit of a stop for the lid swing.

Interior is fitted with 3/16" walnut. This fits into the recess on the lid frame nicely.

At about 5" deep, a walnut tray was added. 1/4" corner blocks keep it near the top so the bottom space doesn't get items smushed.

Tray has box joint corners

and a funky frog drawer pull that has been collecting dust

Not so thrilled with the outcome, a bit ordinary but it'll do.

Finished with Osmo polyx, 7" tall, 12" wide and 9" deep.

Thanks for looking!