Yeah, a repeat with an old panel kicking around that needed a home.
My first laser/veneer work involved simple geometric patterns so I made a few test panels with various woods. Laser cutting always means you need to compensate for the cut kerf, just as with a saw blade. Different woods have slightly different kerfs. Easy enough to compensate, just cut, measure, and resize. With these triangles, the geometry means The kerf doesn't matter. Just pack them in.
I used walnut and switched the orientation around to get a chatoyance effect. 8" x 8" panel, 1/4" plywood, zircote on the back.
The box is 8x8x3. Walnut and Jatoba
To add something new to me, I shamelessly copied John's (awsum55) box with borders embellishment with pronounced engraving on the side panels.
The jatoba is oily which leaves a good black when lased.
Construction is simple frame and offset panel.
The lid is also framed and hinged on 1/8" brass pins. These were installed during assembly so they are hidden (and permanent). Always fun placing the pin holes precisely enough so I can keep a 1/32" gap for the lid and have a natural open-stop at about 95 degrees.
The lift is just a flat of jatoba held to the frame with some flat head copper rivets. tapered on the underside of the head for a countersink just like a wood screw.
Engraving is some Celtic knots and heart. I had though about red resin filling the heart, but with the dry time (48 hours) and extra work, I thought fuggetaboutit. 10 Watt laser was run at 20mm/sec 60%
Anyhoo, one and done, one less test panel on a shelf to taunt me!
Very nice, excellent detail work with the engravings and panel & frames all around. I especially like the hidden lid pin hinges, can't figure out how you did this so accurately. If I tried this, the lid would set too high or low in the back, and im sure it would be crooked, across the back. Two thumbs up on this --- 👍 👍
I keep the lid frame the same thickness as the box's top frame to make life easier. Latest technique is to use a marking knife to scribe a line from the back edge of the box frame across the thickness. The line is the same distance it from the back as the frame is thick, plus 1/16" inward. I then scribe an "X" from the ends of the line corner to corner with the edge of the frame where it meets the inside corner of the box. Center of the "X" marks the hinge hole, centered and 1/32" in for the lid gap. Same thing with the lid frame except I skip the 1/16" add-on. I used to carefully measure and mark the spot, but this way is more accurate and no trying to read a rulers marks.
BB, I'm a cheapo! Since I sell my stuff I have to deal with commissions (15%) and a monthly booth fee of $45 so anywhere I can reduce materials cost is always good. A few inches of brass is cheaper than hinges, but the difficulty is a step up. I never can charge (factor in) labor so I hope to clear maybe $5 on this (which goes to the beer fund) 🤔
I'll probably price it at $75 (that's pushing it in this town). I charge for my investment in the wood, calculated BF from the board I cut from so the stuff that goes into my cutoffs bins is paid for. Add in some tooling wear n tear, sanding stuff, glues, finishes, laser time, etc. so I'm easily covered for everything but labor and electricity.
Did you stand on your Costco mat while building it?
Like the rich guy in the Rolls at the stop light answering the question, "Do you have any Grey Pupon?":
well at least it pays for your hobby so thats good.
That is the goal. When I retire in a bit over 3 months I'll be able to up production and maybe explore other places to sell where people have money to burn!
Hopefully it is not like the painters who die before their stuff starts bringing in $$ 🤠
