chair

As with the other replica chairs I've made, it requires spending quite a bit of time looking at example photos from different angles in order to ma...

Simultaneously aligning all 4 components of a side assembly gave me fits.  Very slight errors in length and/or angles meant that as I sequentially ...

My last pair of blanks are for the armrests.  I started by planing them down to 5/8" thick, which is the final thickness for rear of the armrest.  ...

As mentioned earlier, the armrest will fit into a 1/8" deep recess on the top of the arm.  I made this router jig (from scraps) to use to cut the r...

There were a couple things I wanted to verify before the final glue-up: • Could I keep the paracord lacing tight enough so that it would support a ...

With the router jigs for the side assemblies completed, I could get to work cutting some mortises.     Cutting the mortise for the lower rear stre...

To cut the mortises for the stretchers (front/rear lower stretchers and upper rear stretcher), I needed a couple more jigs.  In these, I used a com...

The visible front edge of the seat frame is a full 1" thick, but tapers to 3/4" thick on the back side. The sides and back of the frame are all 3/4...

I made 3 variations of the jig for drilling the bolt holes in both the ends of the stretchers and into the side assemblies. The first one was just ...

The Wegner chair has a pillow rail that fits into a channel at the top of each of the uprights.  The rail slides through a head pillow sleeve, and ...

The arms have a long taper from full 5/4" thickness at the rear down to about 1/2" at the front.  I made a sled to hold the arm in place and elevat...

The rear edge of the seat frame has 4 loose tenons glued in place.  The protruding tenons dry fit into corresponding mortises in the rear stretcher...