In a previous post I made a veneer/marquetry panel. Has some issues with the dying and general color scheme chosen but it was more about trying out some different designs. Usually I'd put the panel into my special box of assorted whatevers, but I'm trying to cut down on that habit and decided to pull it across the finish line and turn it into something useful.
The Box
About 10"x6"x3", lid framed in cherry, box is jatoba, lid lift is ebony.
First thing was to frame the panel with cherry, 1/2" thick.
Simple T&G.
I routed a 1/16" radius on all edges with a 1/4" radius on the hinge ends top side. This allows for swing clearance and the hinge point placement lets it open to just past vertical.
I left this in the sun for a time to darken the pink a bit, had a cover for the panel to keep that from the dye killing UV's
After this, I had the info for the box dimensions. Wanted 1/32" clearance around the lid as it will be inset. Chose 3/8" jatoba, just butt joined ends with some overlap in the front and back. Simple dado in the base for a 1/8" plywood bottom. Instead of trying to do stopped dados to hide the groove where it would be exposed, I just filled in the ends with some cutoff bits. I used a standard kerf rip blade to cut the groove and that was nice and fast compared to burning up a router bit just for stopped dados.
I'll use some round head 1"x1/8" copper rivets to reinforce the joints and provide hinge pins for the lid.
Pre-finish the inside with Osmo Polyx since assembled that can be a pain. Also am going to use a felt liner on the base and don't want that getting "finished". The felt is adhesive backed and runs the full size of the bottom panel so the edges are trapped in the dado. Prevents it peeling up later.
For the rivets, I just clamp it all together and clearance drill the holes for a slip fit with a #30 bit (0.128") The rivets have reliefs ground in the area that fits into the front/back panels. This gives the epoxy a place to lock in.
I usually just use a tooth pick to wet the hole with epoxy, enough to have it compress into the reliefs but not squeeze out of the joint. Tough balance!
Scramble to get all the adhesives in place and the box clamped up. Lid temporarily in place so I can tweak the boxes squareness for an even gap all the way around. 1/32" washers over the lid pins keep it centered.
The lid pins have the sides drilled with a tight fit and the #30 clearance for the holes in the lid. Keeps the lid swing smooth without slop. I did groove the rivets near the head for a tiny spot of epoxy applied in the relief just before pressing in the final bit. The blue tape keeps any inevitable squeeze out off the wood. There she be, notice the "oops"?
From the woods rich colors, to the rivets, the ebony, all color matches are harmonious. It's not just good craft, but a practiced eye that brought all these things together. Add that glass, and it's a grand slam, of parts and pieces. Put a hinged lid on that, WOWSER.
Nice job, anything for inspiration right? I know when I pull something out of a "to do someday" pile and complete it or turn it into something new, it feels so satisfying.
The lid pins have the sides drilled with a tight fit and the #30 clearance for the holes in the lid. Keeps the lid swing smooth without slop.
I seem to learn something new from a lot of your projects. Thanks bud.
Very nice Splint, great looking box. I like the rounded over butt joints that protrude, provides an air of sophistication. Nice idea to trap the bottom lining in the groove, prevents possible curling and improves the look of the felt - nice sharp corners.
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
.jpeg)
