Workbench / Outfeed Table #1 #8: Doors, Drawer Fronts & Face Frame

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Hello ladies and gents, well I’ve been busy making Doors, drawer fronts & tons of sanding. Well after sanding, I put on two coats of tung oil with a light sanding between the first and second coat with 220 Grit. I needed to knock the raised grain down. I shot each with a blast of air then a good wipe down.
My next step is to fasten the secondary top down to the carcases and put in the slots for the lag bolts that are going to hold the main top.
Then, I’m moving onto installing all the drawer rails in the carcase’s. After said process, I’ll be taking final dimensions of all the drawers and start preparing the wood for them.
The steps I will need to take are:

  • cutting all fronts, backs & sides to rough length
  • resaw wood in half
  • joint face and one edge
  • thickness plane to 1/2"
  • rip to final width
  • cross cut to final length
  • flush half blind dovetails
  • 1/4" dado for drawer bottom
  • dry fit and sand inside faces.
  • Glue
    There are 12 drawers and one huge pull out. I’m thinking that this is going to take some time to complete.
    After that im going to install all the drawers and doors. And finish the entire bottom before I move onto building the top.
    Below are the pictures of the doors, drawer fronts & face frame. Enjoy

The door above has to be my favorite out of all of them.

This door above has spalted hickory in it. This is my second favorite.

-- Jeff Vandenberg aka "Woodsconsin"

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Brian thanks for your kind words. Yeah im taking my time however, I feel that I am rushing at times. Im just trying to make this a bit better since its next to my new tablesaw. Lol

-- Jeff Vandenberg aka "Woodsconsin"

Ianwater just remember to just wipe it on (I use a foam brush) only let it sit for 15 minutes then wipe it off with a shop towel or soft cloth.

-- Jeff Vandenberg aka "Woodsconsin"

Christopher here is what im using

marc sommerfeld doesn’t work with CMT anymore but he does have his own website.
you will also need to get door templates to work with the bits.

-- Jeff Vandenberg aka "Woodsconsin"

It’s really coming together. I couldn’t even imagine making shop furniture so beautiful. I’m always in a rush, using cheap materials and scraps for something to be solely utilitarian. This thing is in another world.

-- Losing fingers since 1969

Thanks Jeff. I have a tung oil can I never used yet. I read it took some people a long time to dry. I guess it’s not the case.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

I put on the tung oil and let it sit for about 15 minutes. However the end grain sucks up the oil like crazy. So I keep Appling the tung oil with a foam brush pretty heavily during the 15 minutes. Then I wipe the doors and drawer fronts down really good. Then I let them sit for 24 hours. I rewipe them to see if I missed anything which I didn’t. However if I did it would have been a little sticky.
so after wiping the second time I took 220 Grit and very lightly went over each piece. Then I blew off and wiped. Then I reapplied the tung oil and followed the same steps.
Now this is my work bench so I only applied two coats. If this was a door or drawer front for a kitchen, Etc.. I would have done 4 coats with sanding in between.

-- Jeff Vandenberg aka "Woodsconsin"

Reverse the favorite for me. I am partial to the spalted door. Actually they are all good.

How long did it take for your tung oil to dry before you could sand?

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

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