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this is a cabinet I built and designed in solid oak , secondary woods are
redheart and paduak , it is 66 inches tall ,34 inches wide and 21and 1/2 inches
I began by making the front frame using (3) 3/8 inch dowels per joint ,
next I attached the two rails on each end of the frame using (4) 5/16
At this point I have made two frames. I will make a third identical frame , it
will be glued and doweled to the back frame , with the joints staggered at
90 degrees to create a lap joint , brings it’s thickness to one and one half
The rail locations have been marked with painter’s tape , because they
will be removed and put back on quite a few times for cutting down,
sanding , attachments etc.
The grey folding table is 28 inches wide and not level by any means .
my cabinet is 34 inches wide ……quite problematic…..but I didn’t want
to start out building a large assembly table . I would rather put that
money into the cabinet materials , and besides …it would bore me .
I had a couple of 20 × 30 " plywood squares on hand that were dead square,
I could place them on each end when needed and shim things out when
needed with a screwdriver or pencil or combination square blade……
whatever was handy . Sometimes it would take 10 – 15 mins. of creative
clamping or impromptu jig making to do a routing procedure that would take
two mins. : ) I knew using that table was going to be a slow roll…..worked out
o.k…..I wasn’t in a rush . Someone with a shop could have knocked this
out in two or three days…..took me about 2 1/2 weeks.
This is the view showing the back rail . Above to the right is the shoulder that has been glued to the back rail and it rises 1/4 inch to keep the doors from
" falling " inward into the cabinet . To the left is the L shaped rail ( (2) 1×3′s doweled
together) that connects the frames together with ( 5) 3/8 inch dowels per joint .
Very stout….zero racking . At this stage it’s time ( yet again ) to remove the kerf rails
for final sanding of the whole cabinet .
View of the top from the front
This view shows the routed kerf to the right , the shoulder in the middle
provides the other part of the kerf. The redheart end caps have been held proud1/4
inch for the overlay to cover the bolt heads.
This view shows the pins for the kerf being attached to the backsides of the
doors. The figure 8’s were flushed to mounting holes with a paddle bit,
the bottom of the mounting holes were chiseled . The blue is the plastic
covering over the acrylic panels which have already been installed in
the doors using silicone. These pins do not ride on the bottom of the
kerf, they simply keep the doors from "falling " outward .
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