Destruction Test of my Homemade Liquid Hide Glue ( Cold hide glue)

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I glued up these fir strips a couple of days ago for destructive testing of my homemade liquid hide glue. For those that don’t know, this glue stays in liquid form when cold and it is also used cold. It takes a lot longer than most glues to set and dry and it has to be clamped or in the case of veneers, pressed, but it can be a great option when you need a long open time and you are not in a big hurry. This product is hot hide glue with salt added. The recipe is in my last blog here. The strips were not planed or sanded smooth. I put different quantities of glue on each corner to get an idea of how much glue would be appropriate for the best result.

Here are the 4 corners glued up. This was glued up a couple of days ago. The photo sequence starts with the thickest spread glue progressing to the last with the thinnest spread. They all show that the wood fibers failed and not the glue, but the last two corners were best and that is where I spread the glue the thinnest. Not surprising, but nice to confirm in reality.

And lastly a pic of my little marquetry pencil pot put to work. I love projects that are useful!

-- Mike, an American living in Norway

Mike
I don’t know what the issue with the glue is but it will not stick and I suspect it is too old as no matter what viscosity or temperature etc. I try .
I was all gung ho to use it on the piano box but so far it’s a no go .
Have watched Pauls video and may have to talk to him as i know it works for him with great results .

Ian, there is no way that hot melt glue is anywhere near the strength of HHG and tack time for HHG is about 30 seconds give or take. It also has a much smaller glue line.

-- The early bird gets the worm but its the second mouse that gets the cheese.

Paul I think maybe I actually used too much water. I measured out the original water and then added more. Salt might be a culprit too.

Klaus What problem are you having with the hot hide glue?

Abbas I didn’t clamp the mitered rim on my little marquetry box, just used rub joints holding them together after rubbing for about 1 minute each and it’s a very strong. Earlier when I started with Hot hide glue on Paul’s advice I tested with some wood scraps using rub joints on those, and after sitting for a few minutes I broke the joints and it was the wood that fractured, not the glue line. I was pretty amazed. HHG is really easy to use, but the glue should be at the right viscosity (not difficult) and it’s a good idea to play with it a little to get some experience. I have hardly used it up to now, but with what little experience I have I am completely sold on it’s bond strength, setting time and ease of use. I also like that it is easy to reverse to fix a slipped or damaged joint or whatever, especially in the first two days when the glue is not fully cured, but also after a hundred years. You just need to apply some heat and moisture. I’m not sure of the best ways to do that, but I’m pretty sure there is some info about it on the net.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway

Great experiments Mike.

Do you know if clamping changing anything to the join strength with hide glue?

I am considering hide glue for my next project where I need the shortest open time. Hot hide glue my be the ticket.
I am wondering if hot melt glue is as strong as hide glue.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

Some interesting experimenting and useful info .
I have been playing around with hot hide glue but have not had much luck so far .
Have to work on that and cold hide glue may just be the answer .
The sample pieces sure tell a story .

Klaus

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