Ross Leidy

The visible front edge of the seat frame is a full 1" thick, but tapers to 3/4" thick on the back side. The sides and back of the frame are all 3/4...

This step is out of order compared to the actual sequence of the build, but it seemed to make sense to present it now.  The back receives a set of ...

To cut the mortises for the stretchers (front/rear lower stretchers and upper rear stretcher), I needed a couple more jigs.  In these, I used a com...

With the router jigs for the side assemblies completed, I could get to work cutting some mortises.     Cutting the mortise for the lower rear stre...

(Originally posted in October 2022) In the summer of 2022, I started a project to replace the skirting around the perimeter of my deck using 5/4 p...

The wing knobs and T-bolts from the last post were working well for the cam clamps, but one thing I thought would make them better is if I could in...

One challenge of fastening to the aluminum channel is that it doesn't work well with regular t-track bolts, which can spin freely in the channel.  ...

Yesterday evening, I cut out the parts for the long version of the clamps and got one assembled. [20230324-IMG_7799.jpg] On the first test, the t...

The previous plunger clamp functioned great, but it seemed a bit wide for what it needed to do.  For rev. 2, I slimmed it down.  Instead of the sli...

One of the things I really like about the Sea-N-Sea clamp is that its clamping pad pushes against the work instead of the cam so there's no tendenc...

The Sea-N-Sea clamps worked great, but they had some downsides: • Multi-part assembly - not complicated, but they take time to knock out. • With th...

I've been spending a lot of time recently scheming DIY clamping options for my CNC machine.   After posting the first set of clamps as a project (b...